Pattern Making and Alterations

Pattern making is a crucial part of the garment manufacturing process. I​t’s the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human. 

Here are some key points about pattern making: 

   A). Pattern Drafting with Measurements: 
         This involves creating a pattern from scratch using specific measurements.

Pattern drafting is the process of creating a paper plan or template for a garment using specific body measurements. The pattern is the first step in the design process and forms the blueprint of a garment. The drafted patterns are created from body measurements, either the industry standard for commercial patterns or individual measurements for self-drafted patterns The pattern designer will sketch the design, which is then shaped using fabric and a dress form to create 3-D sections. These sections are then made into a block or sloper, which forms the basis for the pattern. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.

   B). Cloning Existing Clothes:  
          You can trace existing clothes from your closet to create a pattern.

Cloning existing clothes is a method of creating a pattern by tracing an existing garment without damaging it 1. This method is useful when you have a favorite garment that you want to replicate or when you want to create a pattern from a garment that fits you well. Cloning existing clothes is a method of creating a pattern by tracing an existing garment without damaging it. This method is useful when you have a favorite garment that you want to replicate or when you want to create a pattern from a garment that fits you well. To clone an existing garment, you will need a large piece of paper, straight pins, a fine-point marker, and a ruler. You will also need a garment that you want to duplicate, which should fit you well. You can do minor adjustments, such as making the sleeves a little longer, but the overall fit should be as perfect as possible.

   Here are the steps to clone an existing garment:

   1. Lay the garment flat on a padded surface.
   2. Pin the garment to the paper.
   3. Trace around the garment with a fine-point marker.
   4. Remove the garment and add seam allowances to the traced lines.
   5. Cut out the pattern pieces.
   6. Label the pattern pieces and add notches and other markings as needed
 
 C). Deconstructing Ready-Made Clothes: 
         This involves taking apart an existing garment to create a pattern.

Deconstructing ready-made clothes is a method of creating a pattern by taking apart an existing garment and using its pieces as a template for a new garmenThis method is useful when you have a favorite garment that you want to replicate or when you want to create a pattern from a garment that fits you well. To deconstruct a garment, you will need a seam ripper, scissors, and a large piece of paper. You will also need a garment that you want to duplicate, which should fit you well.

   Here are the steps to deconstruct​ a ready-made garment:

   1. Use a seam ripper to remove all the seams from the garment.
   2. Carefully remove the pieces of the garment, taking care not to damage them.
   3. Lay the pieces flat on a large piece of paper.
   4. Trace around each piece with a fine-point marker.
   5. Add seam allowances to the traced lines.
   6. Cut out the pattern pieces.
   7. Label the pattern pieces and add notches and other markings as needed.

   D). Developing a Block from a Commercial Sewing Pattern: 
         This involves modifying a commercial sewing pattern to suit your needs.

Developing a block from a commercial sewing pattern involves modifying a commercial sewing pattern to suit your needs. 

Here are the steps to do it:

   Choose a Commercial Pattern: 
         Start by choosing a commercial sewing pattern that fits well. This will serve as the base for your block.

   1. Trace the Pattern: 
         Trace the commercial pattern onto a new piece of paper. This allows you to preserve the original pattern while creating your block.

   2. Modify the Pattern: Make any necessary modifications to the pattern. This could include adjusting the size, changing the style, or altering the shape.

   3. Test the Block: 
        Create a mock-up of your garment using inexpensive fabric. This allows you to test the fit and make any necessary adjustments.

   4. Finalize the Block: 
         Once you’re happy with the fit and style, finalize your block. This will serve as the master pattern for future sewing projects.

Remember, a block (also called a sloper) is the master or foundation pattern that is used to make other patterns and other blocks. A full set of basic blocks usually consists of bodice front & back, sleeve, and skirt front & back. Using these blocks while applying the principles of patternmaking allows you to make sewing patterns. From these basic blocks, you can also make derivative blocks, such as sleeveless, torso, extended line dress, and others. You can also create other blocks from scratch, such as an overgarment block, jacket block, or jeans block.
   
   5. Draping on the Stand: 
         This is a more advanced technique where fabric is draped and pinned on a mannequin to create a pattern.

Draping on the stand, often called modeling, is a pattern cutting method used by many designers, where designs are created using the fabric and then transferred onto paper, to make a pattern. 

Here are the steps to do it:

   1.Prepare Your Fabric and Mannequin: 
         Start with a mannequin that matches the size and shape of the intended wearer. Choose a fabric that drapes well and is similar to the fabric you plan to use for the final garment.

   2. Place Your Fabric Over the Mannequin: 
         Drape the fabric over the mannequin, cutting and pinning it to create your design2. Smooth, crease, splice, and pin the fabric until the desired shape is achieved.

   3. Mark Your Drape Up: 
         Be accurate and mark every relevant point and seam. This will help you when you transfer the drape to paper.

   4. Unpin Your Drape from the Mannequin: 
         Carefully remove the fabric from the mannequin.

   5. Lay It Flat Over Some Paper: 
         Ready for tracing. This is where you’ll create your paper pattern from the fabric drape.

   6. Trace the Pattern: 
         Trace around the fabric onto the paper, marking all relevant points and seams.

   7. Finalize the Pattern: 
        Add seam allowances, notches, grainlines, and other necessary pattern markings.

This method allows you to see the garment come to life right in front of you, allowing you to experiment with fabric and adjust details quickly and easily. It’s a great way to create unique and creative patterns.

Pattern making can be done traditionally on paper or digitally using computerized systems. It’s a bridge function between design and production, turning a sketch into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components. 

There are four stages to creating a pattern: 

   1. Line Drawing: 
         This is a simple line drawing of a garment design. 

   2. Working Pattern: 
         This is a pattern that stays intact, so that you can refer back to it. 

   3. Development Pattern: 
         This is the finalised version of your working pattern. 

   3.Production Pattern: 
         This is the pattern which includes seam allowance and is ready for production. 

Creative pattern making is the technique of developing both flat patterns and draped patterns in a more creative way. Rather than following step by step instructions, a creative pattern cutter will experiment with flat pattern cutting and draping to create a unique and creative pattern.